*This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through a link, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Fast forward to this year when deciding on costumes. Nothing was clicking, but then Kiki came up and the idea of making a giant bow and witch broom sounded fun and ideal for my energy levels.

Yes, this costume is easily purchasable (available as a set), but I didn’t want to be a stock Kiki so I decided to find the components separately. Doing so meant I could make this costume unique while picking pieces I could reuse.

Costume Overview

• Black dress: Purchased from Uniqlo Japan. (similar options)
• Red radio: One of the coolest things I’ve recently purchased! It takes two AA batteries and has a wrist strap and retractable antenna.
• Crossbody bag: I got the camel-colored one and removed the exterior tag. The bag has a zippered closure and a couple of small interior pockets. It has been so useful already and I wish every costume had a bag.
• Bow, broom, birdcage: Made or altered by me. Details below.

Main Outfit

For my dress, I used one we originally bought in Japan for my daughter. She’s always referred to it as her witchy dress which makes it perfect for Kiki. My socks, which are hard to see, have an embroidered Jiji image on them. I bought them in Japan as well, before I decided to be Kiki, so that was a happy coincidence. Instead of purchasing red flats, I wore black sneakers for a convention and my black Chelsea boots everywhere else, including in these photos.

Red Bow

Because it’s a key component for the character, I wanted to make the biggest red bow possible. I achieved this by using iron-on interfacing before sewing the bow together and attaching it to a headband. I was surprised by how well this worked and second guessed the size, but decided to keep it since it is Kiki after all.

I used a 1″ plastic headband as my base, wrapped it with fabric, and sewed the finished bow onto the headband by hand. It was comfortable enough that I kept forgetting I had a giant bow on my head. I use these headband blanks and have a bunch of them on hand for different projects.

Witch Broom

The thought of making my own witch’s broom got me, but it was more complicated than I was ready for. In the end, I altered a regular corn broom with a wooden handle ($17 from Home Depot) by undoing the lower metal band and plastic strings and replacing them with cotton twine. I also wrapped the upper metal bands with cotton twine to match.

Some tutorials tell you to purchase another broom to use the bristles to round it out, but I opted not to so I could stay on budget and reduce waste. If you have clamps, you could use them to help bunch the bristles into a circular shape for wrapping too. I didn’t have those so, instead, I had someone help me hold the bristles while I wrapped them as tightly as I could. The way I did it was pretty simple and I didn’t love it at first, but it’s grown on me.

Jiji’s Birdcage

This simple project was the perfect last-minute addition to my Kiki costume. After researching and browsing Dollar Tree, I chose these gold-wired baskets to create the birdcage. The wire I used to hold the baskets together are actually hooks intended for Christmas ornaments. I added a strap using leather scraps and a KAM snap. To finish it off, I tied a red ribbon to the Jiji plush (also purchased in Japan).

And that’s it! I love the little details I could add to make this costume unique. It is the perfect comfortable cosplay!

Have you seen Kiki’s Delivery Service? Are you dressing up as Kiki? I hope this post helps!

Find more of my costumes here and on Instagram.

Sewing was not something I grew up doing. I learned the basics in middle school but didn’t think about it again when the unit ended. In my mind, sewing was quilting or making small adjustments. It was a skill one could use for practical purposes. It wouldn’t occur to me for years after I got my first sewing machine that it could be so much more.

For a short list of affordable, entry-level machine recommendations, check out this post.

*This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through a link, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

My First Machine: Brother XL2600i

I got my first sewing machine as a holiday gift in 2010. It was a well-rated entry-level machine my husband picked out after I told him I was interested in learning to sew. We’d recently made our first DIY Halloween costume for our oldest using a glue gun to piece it all together and I thought a sewing machine could be useful for future costumes, possibly clothing, and other things.

This first machine didn’t have a lot of features, but it helped me make my first clothing item, a bubble dress for my youngest, and other things for a few more years. I didn’t know much about sewing so I looked for free online tutorials and learned what I needed to know as I worked through them.

My Second Machine (the one I made my clothes with): Brother CS6000i

A few years into sewing, I got a new machine from my husband for Mother’s Day. He saw that I liked to sew, even though I didn’t realize how good it was for me, and thought it was time for an upgrade. I didn’t expect the gift so I was initially upset with him. I thought my old one was fine and that he was wasting money with an upgrade. Turns out he was right and this would be the machine I’d advance my skills on the most. (He is the catalyst for most of my machines.)

Switching to this machine drastically changed things for me. Most of the frustrations I had with my previous machine went away and I realized my skills weren’t lacking as much as I thought. The problems I could never figure out before were due to the machine, not my own error. It was so gratifying to realize that.

This is the sewing machine I made all of my handmade wardrobe on and the one I always recommend to beginners. It is slightly more than some machines, but the headaches you avoid are worth it. It also comes with all the sewing feet you could want making this the best bang for your buck.

If you have this machine and wonder why I upgraded, I did so because I wanted to, not because I needed to. With this machine, I’ve made everything from costumes to clothing to bags. I got it in 2014 and steadily used it from 2018 to 2023. It’s handled everything I’ve put through it and I would keep using it if I hadn’t decided to upgrade.

My Serger: Brother 1034D

In 2016, my husband once again gifted me with another machine. This time, a serger (AKA overlocker) which became a game changer once I got up the courage to learn how it worked. This is another machine I got so mad at my husband for getting me because I was so intimidated by it and didn’t think I deserved it. (I tend to give myself a guilt trip when I get nice things. I’m working on that.)

It sat in the box for a while before I opened it. Once I pulled everything out, I was immediately overwhelmed and put it away. I can’t remember how long it took me to finally use it, but I regretted waiting so long after I did. There was a slight learning curve, but I was able to find a YouTube tutorial for everything I needed help with.

The most asked question I get about sergers is whether or not it is needed to make your own clothes. The answer is no. You don’t need a serger to make your own clothes, but it can be a game changer in leveling up your sewing skills. It has been worth it to me to get a professional finish and has also made sewing knits significantly easier.

My Coverstitch: Brother Coverstitch 2340CV

After sewing mostly woven clothing for years, I wanted to delve more into knits. I realized that I didn’t love my knit garments, because I didn’t like the finishes I could do with my regular sewing machine.

I mentioned to my husband that I was interested in a coverstitch at some point and he, of course, took it upon himself to research and gift me one for the holidays. He purchased a two-in-one, serger and coverstitch, which he didn’t realize was usually not well-reviewed so we exchanged it for the Brother.

If you’re familiar with Brother machines, you’ll find similar features with this one like a color-coded threading guide which I appreciate. The learning curve on the coverstitch was surprisingly low and I was able to get it threaded and sewing pretty quickly right out of the box.

If you know how to use a serger, then a coverstitch is going to be very easy for you to learn. Threading on the coverstitch is a lot more straightforward than a serger too.

After having the coverstitch since the end of 2020, I have to say that it’s the least used machine in my collection. I don’t make a lot of knits though I love the finish I get whenever I do. It’s a toss up whether or not I would recommend past me to get this machine. I like that I have it, but it’s definitely a splurge.

My New Machine: Brother Pacesetter PS700

I decided to upgrade my sewing machine after almost 9 years with my previous machine because I felt it was time. I had the energy to try something new and thought I’d learn more quilting.

My previous machines were purchased online based on reviews, but the next machine to get wasn’t obvious to me so we went to a sewing machine store I had a great experience with the sales associate who answered every question I could think of and my husband helped me pick one out as a birthday gift.

Notable things I learned at the sewing machine store:

• The biggest difference between my under $200 machine and the ones in the store (all starting at least twice that): metal components. Inexpensive machines are made with a mix of plastic and metal while the pricier machines contain only metal components.
• Bernina machines are each made by a single person.

The machine I chose was another Brother. I stuck with Brother because it was affordable and didn’t require a learning curve. I was intrigued by the other brands at the shop, but I would’ve had to sacrifice a lot of features or pay a lot more, which didn’t seem worth it.

After using the Brother PS700 for a few projects, I was impressed by how smooth and quiet it was. I loved the thread-cutting feature, but also quickly realized it wasn’t going to automatically make me a better sewist. I don’t know what my expectations were, but I still dealt with wonky lines and uneven stitches if I wasn’t paying attention.

Now that I’ve used it for many months and for several different projects, I’ve found myself not using any of the features that initially sold me on it. I stopped using the thread-cutting feature, especially with clothes because it makes the first backstitch on a new line very messy. I don’t use the knee thing. I don’t use the extended table. Basically, I don’t use any of the features that quilters must love it for, because I haven’t really started quilting like I thought I would.

What I still like about the machine is how smooth and easy it is to work with. I didn’t realize how loud and clunky my previous machine was until I started using this one. I like the automatic needle threader, which stopped working well on my last machine. The biggest difference I like best between my old machine and this one is the larger workspace. The throat space on my machine looks tiny compared to the new one and I like that I don’t have to wrestle fabric through as much anymore.

Is it worth the cost difference from my previous machine? At first, I thought time would tell, but then I took many months later to finish writing this post and have used the machine for over a year now. Logically, there’s no way it can be worth 5x the cost of my previous machine, especially since I haven’t been sewing as much. If I were sewing a lot more (like in 2018 at the beginning of my handmade wardrobe) or sewing more quilts, I could justify the cost.

At this point, I view it as a splurge rather than a necessity, but would recommend it to anyone who has a higher budget and wants a machine that can stick with them through their sewing journey.

Machine Timeline:

• 2010: Brother XL2600I
• 2014: Brother CS6000i (Current model)
• 2016: Brother 1034D Serger
• 2020: Brother 2340CV Coverstitch
• 2023: Brother Pacesetter PS700

When did you get your first sewing machine? How did you choose a new machine?

Thanks for reading!

I’ve been writing packing lists for my kids for years. I initially made a list for myself so I wouldn’t forget anything, but I started writing ones for the kids as they got old enough to pack themselves. I wanted them to be accountable for their packing so I’d write nearly two identical lists to distribute. It’s become such a helpful tool that the kids always ask for one before every trip.

After years of handwriting the same list more than once, I realized I could streamline the process by making a digital version to fit what I was looking for. My version is designed to be easy to read, quick to print, and has two lists per page. It’s minimal at its finest and not the prettiest, but it works.

So far, this general list has been good for nearly all of our trips (international, road trips, plane flights) and I adjust as needed before printing it off. Note that what works for some may not work for others. For example, this list is for a 4-5 day trip. While there are 4 tops listed, there are only 2 bottoms listed which some may want to adjust. For longer trips, plan on doing laundry during your trip and add laundry detergent to your list.

Feel free to use this as a template for your general packing needs! I hope it helps.

You can grab the free printable Google Docs file, make a copy, and edit as you need HERE.

Find more tips and posts on travel here.

(This post was updated in January 2024.)

What is a Comfort Pack?

I had no idea what these were until I was introduced to them by Andrew and his family. Now we use them every day in the cooler months and always have some extras around the house. They’re especially nice when you’re feeling under the weather.

A comfort pack is a reusable pack that can be heated in the microwave or cooled in the freezer. Depending on the filling, you will have varied textures and heat retention for your personal preference. Possible fillings include rice, cherry pits, beans, and corn. They’re also known as corn bags, hot pads, comfort bags, etc.

Our preferred filling is corn, because it doesn’t take a lot of time to heat and they stay warm for hours. The feel and popcorn like scent are nice and they seem to last well after lots of uses. With some of our packs, the fabric has worn faster than the corn itself.

How to Use a Comfort Pack

Our favorite way to use a comfort pack is to heat it in the microwave before bedtime. Keeping it at the foot of our bed, under the covers, helps keep us warm and toasty as we fall asleep. We use these every day and sometimes all year round.

After a long day, a warm pack is a great way to relax tired muscles. You can also keep these in the freezer as a great alternative to an ice pack.

What You Need to Make a Corn Comfort Pack:

• 100% cotton fabric. I prefer using flannel for its softness, but you can use anything that is 100% cotton. For the packs above, I pulled from my quilting cotton stash. For the packs below, I used flannel.
• Filling. For corn, look for whole corn which can usually be found at animal feed stores. If possible, look for cleaned whole corn. If you can’t find cleaned whole corn, you’ll want to sift out the tiny pieces and dust before filling. Whole corn usually comes in bulk which makes them ideal for making a lot at a time.
• Thread and pins.
• Optional: Funnel.

Choose and Cut Your Size:

Rectangles are the ideal all-purpose shape and are the size I use the most. They can be used as hot/cold packs, be kept at your feet in bed, etc.

• To cut: Fold your fabric in half along the grain and cut 7″ strips along the width of the fabric. Then cut those strips in half along the fold/short end. With 1 yard of fabric, you should end up with 10 total pieces roughly 7″ x 21″ in size.

Long rectangles are ideally used around the neck and shoulders. If you often experience pain in those areas, a hot or cool comfort pack will help ease your muscles there.

• To cut: Fold your fabric in half along the grain and cut 6.5″ strips along the width of the fabric. With 1 yard of fabric, you should end up with 5 total pieces roughly 6.5″ x 42″ in size.

*These are approximations with 42″ wide fabric

How to Make a Comfort Pack:

1. With right sides together, sew up the longest sides using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch well when starting/stopping. For the rectangle size, you can partially sew the short edge, leaving a 3″ space to fill the bag.
2. Turn right side out and fill. You can use a wide funnel for this step or anything that scoops. You’ll want to fill it 1/2 to 2/3 full leaving enough space to close the opening. Place a couple of pins just above the fill line so the corn won’t spill out while you sew.
   • For the long rectangle, you can optionally split the filling into 3 separate compartments. To do this, split the filling into thirds. Fill the first third of the bag then topstitch that section roughly 6″ away from the edge. Add another third of the filling and topstitch that section roughly 6.5″ away from the first topstitched line. Add the last of the filling and continue to the next step.
3. When you’re ready to close the opening, fold the opening in 1/2″ and pin in place. Sew closed with a 3/8″ seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch well and/or go over this edge more than once.
4. When you’re all done, heat it in the microwave for 2 minutes on top of a couple of dry paper towels. This will sterilize the corn and get the excess moisture out. Once it has cooled down, repeat this step until the excess moisture is gone.

Batch Sewing Numbers

If you want to sew these packs in a batch, here are calculations to help you gather supplies and plan.

One bag of 40 lb whole corn will make:

• Rectangle: 32 half-full packs (1 lb 5 oz each). 21 two-thirds full (1 lb 14 oz each).
• Long rectangle: 32 packs (1 lb 4 oz each).

*If you have a digital scale, these calculations are roughly what you want to aim for and include the weight of the flannel pack.

One yard of 42″ width fabric will make:

• Rectangle: 10 packs
• Long rectangle: 5 packs

Free Printable Tag

I found this cute poem from Skip to My Lou and adapted it for a printer-friendly option. Feel free to save the photo above to add to your handmade gifts. The tags shown here were printed at 3.5″ x 5″ which fits 4 tags per page. (For the original free printable, head over to Skip To My Lou’s and check out her corn heating bag tutorial.)

If you found this tutorial or free printable helpful, please let me know. I would love to see your makes. Tag me on Instagram or link back here. I hope you enjoy these as much as we do!

I spent much of the year not making things and often made things in bursts. I’m not much of a planner so I make things when I feel like it. The rest of my time was spent reading (I finished 102 books), mending/altering clothes, and hanging out with family.

Patterns I Purchased in 2023

I’ve never really documented my use/purchase of patterns very well before. This year, however, is pretty easy to break down since I cut back a lot. I didn’t purchase a lot of new sewing patterns and pulled from my library of patterns for most of this year’s makes. I’ve consciously limited new patterns for the last several years and think I’ve gotten a pretty good handle on impulse buying. Instead, I try to only buy patterns when I am ready to start them. I’ve found that helps decrease the chance of stockpiling patterns and then forgetting about them.

Sewing Patterns

I did well limiting my sewing pattern purchases to what I could make and ended up completing all but three. Letting those uncompleted ones slide has been good and I’m glad I didn’t make something just for the sake of it.

• Reynolds Top and Dress from Helen’s Closet: I bought this pattern to make three garments: two tops for me and one dress for Isabelle. I completed the makes in record time for our Japan trip and proceeded to wear them all summer long. I will use this pattern again. All details on these makes can be found here.
• Overland Cloak from Twig + Tale Patterns: I purchased this to make my hobbit cloak for Halloween, but then I realized I didn’t have the energy to take on such an extensive project.
• Dino Nugget Plushie from Patterns for Pirates: I told myself I didn’t need another holiday project, but then I discovered the perfect fabric for it in the remnants section and decided to just go with it. I made the T-Rex plushie for fun which prompted Isabelle to start making her own for her teachers and friends.
• Evie Knit Top from Style Arc: I only purchased this so I could get the other pattern I wanted for free. I believe they were doing a freebie with any purchase so I chose a staple that I didn’t already have in my library. I have yet to make it although I admit I forgot about it until compiling this list.
• Byron Woven Top from Style Arc: This is the pattern I was lusting for to make the previous purchase. I made it, but had a whole slew of fit issues. I do not recommend this pattern unless you’re ready to do a lot of mods.
• Book Nook Quilt from Pen + Paper Patterns: This isn’t the first quilt pattern I’ve purchased, but it is the first one I’ve made. It took months after I finished the quilt top for me to finally finish it off. This was my first foray into quilting and I both loved and hated the process.
• Playful Placemats from Cedar Quilt Co.: Freebie. I started this quilted beginner project and have all of the HSTs done, but have yet to decide how I want them to be placed.

Knitting Patterns

All patterns are from Petite Knit except the last two. I made or started 3/5 which I think is great considering the two left are smaller projects or freebies.

• Sophie Scarf: I completed this one toward the beginning of the year, but I have yet to wear it.
• Stockholm Slipover: Started it and have some of the body done.
• December Bow: I purchased this thinking it would be a fun holiday project, but I never started it.
• Holly Bow: Freebie that I thought would be fun for the holidays, but I never started it.
• ‘Hop to it’ Bunny Bonnet from Lauren Aston Designs: This was an impulse make and I made a couple after I saw it on Instagram. One was gifted while I still have the other to gift in the future.
• Chunky Knit Crown from Lauren Aston Designs: I made several of these that the kids and I ended up wearing to the family Easter egg hunt.

Embroidery Patterns

Both of these patterns are from Lady Scrib and fuel my obsession with a book series that I started in 2023. I have yet to get started on either pattern, but she was having a sale and I wanted to support her.

• I Will Not Die Today
• Fly or Die

Patterns I Made Again

I love reusing patterns whenever I can and find comfort in the familiar. I also like to go through iterations with the same pattern to see it in different variations.

• Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven: These are my favorite elastic-waisted pants. I’ve made them so many times that I know what to expect with the process and fit. I also like that I can make a pair with 1.5 yards of fabric. Check out my first four versions here.
• Persephone Pants from Anna Allen Clothing: I’ve made this fitted wide-legged pant several times as well and like the ease of making it. It doesn’t need a ton of pieces cut or use a lot of fabric either which I appreciate.
• York Apron from Helen’s Closet: I’ve made the original pinafore version of this pattern a lot, but this is the second time I’ve used this apron expansion. Both times I’ve made the apron has been for gifts although I’d love to make one for myself one day.
• Bardon Dress from Peppermint Magazine: Pay what you want. I made two more dresses this year from this simple pattern. See them here. See my first version of this pattern here.
• Traveller Cape from Twig + Tale Patterns: I modified this one for my daughter’s costume cloak. I made it once before as part of their ambassador team.
• Fennel Fanny Pack from Sarah Kirsten: I use the first one I made nonstop and made two more as gifts.
• Holiday Slipover from Petite Knit: I’ve made this countless times and completed a new gray one.

Fabric I purchased in 2023

This is a hard one to track, but I have to admit that I did not do as well with making the fabrics I purchased as I did with patterns. This is especially true because I came home from Japan with a fabric haul that I have yet to cut into. I plan on starting on those now that the holiday madness is over, but I find this to be a common problem with precious fabrics or with fabrics I buy on impulse.

I may have bought more fabric than I could get through this year, but I am happy with most of my purchases and know I’ll be able to use them soon. I’m glad that the fabrics I purchased with very specific projects in mind were put to use and that I was able to pull from my stash for other projects too.

Year Recap

In total, I made three tops, three dresses, three pairs of pants, a costume cloak, an apron, my first quilt from a pattern, three bags, quilted coasters, and a ton of corn comfort bags. Some of this was for me and some were for gifts. I also sewed a plushie, started a new embroidery, and crocheted things that I haven’t documented yet. I didn’t make a lot of things in 2023 as I have in previous years, but I’m happy with the progress I made.

Thanks for reading! I hope the new year treats you well.

First-Ever Sitewide Sale

As a thank you for your support, I’m launching 4 new labels with something I’ve never done before: a sitewide sale! Use code THANKFUL23 for 10% off everything in my shop through the rest of the month. SHOP NOW.

New Labels

Gift-Worthy

If you’re in a time crunch or aren’t making gifts this year, consider these options:

• Stickers
• Tote Bags
• Candles
• Wrapping Paper and Gift Tags

Thank you for being here! Your support is appreciated more than I can ever express. If there’s anything I can help with, please let me know.

Have a happy and safe holiday season!

Before planning for this trip, Andrew’s knowledge of the Japanese language was solely based on the countless hours of anime he’s consumed in his life (and the minuscule amount of time he spent on Duolingo). His accent and knowledge of basic words weren’t too bad, but he wanted to dedicate more time and effort to learning. It’s a language he’s always wanted to learn so this trip was a great reason for him to get started.

Duolingo wasn’t enough for this task (and was also super hard since Japanese has three character-based written alphabets) so Andrew found a private tutor on Preply. Neither of us had any experience with Preply before, but a coworker recommended it to him and we’ve been impressed with how well Andrew’s lessons have been going.

Andrew, being who he is, heavily front-loaded his lessons to try to get as much in as possible. He ended up decreasing his lesson and study time after the initial burnout, but he kept going with at least one lesson per week for two months. By the time our trip came around, he’d rate himself 2 out of 10 on language skills and was able to navigate some tricky situations in Japan.

The rest of us, on the other hand, were hovering right at zero in language skills. Jadon and Isabelle know how to speak, read, and write Mandarin Chinese (which one of the Japanese alphabets, Kanji, is adapted from), but that was not surprisingly unhelpful in Japan.

If you’re staying in the cities and touristy areas, you’ll see signs and hear announcements translated into English and Mandarin on the buses and trains, but most people you talk to will have very limited English skills, if any. They’re usually incredibly patient and will figure out what you need (or find someone who can), but it’s a lot smoother to have some language skills even if it’s to say excuse me (sumimasen) or thank you (arigato).

Japanese Phrases to Learn

• Sumimasen. Excuse me. Can also be used as a thank you.
• Kudasai. Please. Especially useful when ordering. For example, you can point to the menu item and say kudasai. If ordering more than one of an item, hold up the number of fingers you want too.
• Arigato. Thank you.
• Dozo. Here you go/ here you are. You’ll hear this when someone is giving something to you, like a bag. Or if they’re ready for you or acknowledging you.

While not strictly necessary, I recommend practicing these basic phrases at home as a show of respect when you visit Japan. You’ll hear these phrases often and will find plenty of circumstances where you can use them. Speak them out loud and get used to hearing/saying them. It’s one thing to know what the word is at home. It’s a completely different thing to feel comfortable enough saying it in a foreign environment.

Learning a few phrases with your kids also helps them understand and appreciate the culture they’re about to be immersed in. Throughout our trip, we were able to pick out these common phrases and more while listening to various announcements on buses and trains.

Not Fluent in the Language?

If you’re worried about visiting a place where you don’t speak the language, Japan is a great place to go. Their welcoming and kind culture quickly eased our worries away.

Not knowing the language in a foreign country was obviously our biggest concern. Having one person in the group with basic knowledge alleviated our worries, but there was only so much Andrew could do with his newfound skills. Fortunately, we felt incredibly welcome in Japan and didn’t feel like our lack of language skills was a major pain point. Most of the people we encountered were exceptionally accepting and we all felt comfortable navigating interactions quickly. It was honestly amazing to see how well we could communicate with nothing more than patience, compassion, and hand gestures.

If you’re in need of someone who understands English, you’ll likely find that most common in Tokyo in the most touristy of places. Even if you don’t find someone who understands English, you’ll still easily find someone who is willing to help however they can. Just be sure to cut your sentences down to the most important details so they can guide you in the right direction.

For practicality, be sure to have Google Translate (or another way to translate) on hand in more complex situations. No matter what, you’ll find that the kindness of strangers in Japan is not exaggerated and that you’ll adapt to your surroundings.

If you want to read more, find all my Japan posts here and all my travel posts here.

Thanks for reading!

As a self-taught sewist, I learned how to make things through the info I found online and a lot of trial and error. My handmade wardrobe wouldn’t be possible without my favorite machines so I wanted to share my best recommendations to help those interested in sewing clothing and more.

These machines are chosen based on affordability and ease of use based on my personal experience. I am not an ambassador for Brother. I’m just a fan of their intuitive designs and will only earn an affiliate commission through Amazon if you use my links. Thank you if you do!

*This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through a link, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

My Recommendations:

• Sewing machine: Brother CS7000X
• Serger/Overlocker: Brother 1034D
• Coverstitch: Brother 2340CV

Sewing Machine

For an all-around sewing machine, the Brother CS7000X is my recommendation for beginners and up. I tell everyone looking to get into sewing to get this machine. At around $200, it is the best bang for your buck with all the features and accessories you could want. I used the older model (CS6000i) to make all my clothes and never felt the need to upgrade to a pricier machine.

Notable features:

• Adjustable speed setting. A must-have for beginners.
• Includes walking foot.

Serger/Overlocker

The Brother 1034D is probably the most popular serger on the market (also known as an overlock machine) and is widely referred to as a workhorse. If you’re looking to get your first serger, this is your best option at $200-300. I have seen it cost as low as $200 around the holiday season so keep an eye out for sales.

Sergers are best for finishing edges and sewing knits. It is different from a sewing machine because it cuts fabric off while sewing the edges in a unique stitch that keeps edges from fraying. This stitch is also great for knitwear because it’s stretchy. You can see this type of stitch on most store-bought garments.

If you’re making clothing, it’s a game changer to have a serger but it also isn’t a necessity. It really depends on your preferences and what you like to sew. For me, I’ve loved having it and feel no need to upgrade from this machine.

Why I like this serger:

• Easy to use. Threading is the biggest learning curve when it comes to using a serger. The color-coded illustrations of this model make it easy to understand.
• Video tutorials. Because this is such a popular model, you can easily find tutorials whenever you encounter a question.

Coverstitch

If you sew a lot of knits and want a more professional finish on necklines and hemlines, then you’re probably thinking about getting a coverstitch machine. I did a ton of research before deciding on the Brother Coverstitch 2340CV.

This is by far the priciest machine on this list and also my least-used machine. That being said, your level of use really depends on what you sew. I don’t sew a lot of knits, but when I do, I love using this machine to finish off hemlines. The stretchy stitch is ideal and has held up a lot better than anything I could do with my regular sewing machine.

If this machine intimidates you, then you’ll be happy to hear this is easier to thread than the serger. You only need to change two threads, which is similar in threading to a regular sewing machine. If you decide to change the third thread as well, then you just follow the color-coded guide.

Did you find this helpful? If so, check out more of my sewing recommendations. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for reading!

The last two things I made for Japan were two Bardon Dresses, one for me and one for my daughter, Isabelle. I wanted to make a tiered gathered dress and ultimately chose this dress for its simplicity. I’ve made this pattern by Peppermint Magazine and Elbe Textiles once before in a rust double gauze and having the pattern ready to go helped with my quick deadline.

Size Modifications

I made size C for myself according to my upper bust measurement. I made size A for my teen daughter. Both dresses started off with these general modifications, but Isabelle’s dress needed more. Read on for the details.

• SBA: I made a 1″ small bust adjustment which eliminated the darts completely.
• Shortened the bodice by 1″. The back bodice needed 1.25″ removed to match the side seam of the front bodice.
• Shortened each skirt tier by 1″
• Shortened the straps by 1″. Shortened more for my daughter.

Double Gauze Bardon Dress

Isabelle loves double gauze. Her favorite baby blankets were made of double gauze, but we haven’t seen as many garments made from double gauze until recently. She found my double gauze fabric and wrapped it around herself toga style so I decided to make her a dress. It’s like wearing a comfy blanket and she preferred to wear this on travel days like on the airplane.

I made the smallest size A and used a bigger seam allowance in hopes of sizing it smaller for her. I shortened the straps considerably. I realized too late that the front neckline was way too low and that it was still too big so I had to come up with a quick solution. I’d already finished everything so I ended up just turning the dress around and taking 2″ or so from the center of the bodice. It’s not the fanciest of fixes, but it’s hard to see with the double gauze.

Though double gauze can be shifty at times, it’s a lot easier to make the gathers so I found that part to be faster and less frustrating than with the linen I used below.

Linen Bardon Dress

I didn’t love the fit of my previous version of this dress in double gauze, but I wasn’t sure if I’d have the same problem with a more stable fabric. I made size C for myself and kept the same mods for this linen version. I’m undecided if I like where the bodice hits on me. For now, I’m keeping it as it is.

Making the gathers with this midweight linen was kind of a headache because they didn’t lay as well as I would’ve liked and could’ve used more finessing. It was a very stable fabric to work with though so I didn’t have any other problems sewing with it. (Fabric was purchased from Salt Lake Sewciety.)

While in Japan, I felt like the neckline could’ve been higher. I would consider adjusting that next time around even if I don’t plan on taking it on a future Japan trip. At home, I haven’t felt self-conscious about it, but I also think I’d prefer it to be slightly higher. The length works well for Japan though and I haven’t thought about changing it at home.

Overall Thoughts

I like the pattern for its simplicity, but it needs a lot of mods for this petite sewist. Since I’ve already done most of the mods, I would definitely make this pattern again and would recommend it to anyone looking for this style. It’s a relatively quick sew once you have your mods figured out. I love how floaty it looks in a double gauze and it’s great for linen summer dresses.

Have you made the Bardon Dress? See my previous version.

Pattern

I’m a huge fan of Helen’s Closet (see all my posts here), but the Reynolds pattern didn’t interest me when it was first released. I resisted this general style for a while but recently started gravitating toward it. Trends occur for a reason and I guess I finally came around to the square neckline and strap design.

Even though I wasn’t initially interested in this pattern, I knew I wouldn’t be disappointed in the fit and construction of Helen’s patterns. I was right, because each piece came together quickly and I’ve been wearing them nonstop. They were made with Japan in mind, but have become summer staples I’ve worn many times after the trip.

If you’re interested in this pattern, I would highly recommend it. It’s a great scrapbuster and comes together quickly. The only fiddly bit would be making sure you have the right strap length, but you should be able to do that with your first make and copy it for the rest.

Sizing + Mods

I made 2 tank tops for myself and 1 dress for my daughter. The biggest modification was the small bust adjustments to remove the darts. With my upper bust being bigger or roughly the same as my full bust measurement, I don’t need darts that often especially when a pattern fits loosely like this one. (#UpperBiggerThanFull on Instagram) Eliminating the darts also made these faster to make.

For me:

• View A tank top in size 8 based on my upper bust measurement.
• ~1″ SBA to remove the darts.
• Shortened straps ~1″.
• Rolled hem instead of the deeper hem. I didn’t adjust the length and thought the shorter strap would be fine, but found the crop to be way too short. Next time, I would consider adding length to accommodate the pattern’s intended deeper hem.
• I didn’t topstitch the straps, because I didn’t love the look on my daughter’s dress.

For my teen:

• Size 0 which was still slightly larger than my daughter’s measurements.
• View B which is the shorter dress length. For my daughter’s 5’1″ height, it came to just below her knees.
• ~1″ SBA to remove the darts.
• Shortened the straps quite a bit, but I don’t remember exactly how much.
• Pockets were placed as the pattern suggested and my daughter was able to use them for everything including a full-size water bottle.

Fabric

Each version is made from at least some linen which is perfect for heat and humidity. If you’re looking for something that will work well for a humid climate (and all the sweat that comes with summer), then definitely indulge in linen. It ticks all the boxes: moisture-wicking, cooling, and dries quickly. I also wash and dry almost everything in a machine and the linens have held up very well. Just be sure to wash and dry before cutting because it will shrink considerably.

The orange top was made from linen/rayon scraps from a previous project and is my favorite of the two I made. The fabric is less structured than the blue linen/cotton blend so it drapes better and I don’t have to worry about the neckline when I bend over.

My daughter’s 100% linen dress has been her preferred outfit for humid weather. She isn’t a dress person on most days at home in our dry desert, but this dress has been much appreciated on our humid summer trips where her everyday wear has been too uncomfortable. She wears this with a pair of shorts underneath.

I purchased the linen/cotton remnant and linen from Salt Lake Sewciety, which also happens to stock my labels.

Overall Thoughts

I love this pattern and its simplicity. It’s great for scrapbusters and for summer makes. I would highly recommend it especially if you’re batch sewing. These makes are now part of my summer capsule and I am so glad I finally gave this pattern a try.

Have you made the Reynolds Top and Dress pattern yet?